We spent ten wonderful days in early spring of 2018 traveling in Portugal from the beautiful city of Lisbon, to the amazing city of Oporto. We sailed the stunning Douro River Valley of Portugal and enjoyed a full day in Spain. I’m so glad we didn’t miss Iberia’s university towns of Cambria and Salamanca. The cuisine, wine and fado music are an experience in themselves. It was a trip I will never forget.
Hint: I always try to learn a little of the language. Raylene, Shari and I played around with a free app to learn a few Portuguese words and phrases. Hello is Olá and please is por favor. So it seems similar to Spanish, but don’t make that comment while in Portugal! Goodbye is Adeus. Hmm, that comes from a different language. Portuguese is unique in that certain words depend on who is speaking, rather than who is spoken to. Obrigada is how a woman says thank you but a man says Obrigado. Cheers is Saúde. That word comes in handy as you raise your glass of Port wine. The Portuguese spoken in Portugal differs from that spoken in Brazil as it has evolved over the years.
Getting There
This trip was with my husband, John, and two of my travel buddies, Raylene and Shari. John had traveled with Raylene and her husband Jeff before, but never with Shari. They made quick friends and had a playful banter throughout the whole trip. We were traveling via Viking River Cruises which is the way to go. You pick an itinerary of Viking’s, and then add your own adventures to it. Everything is so well organized and Viking takes excellent care of their customers. This is the eighth time I’ve used them and will continue to do so in the future.
Thursday, April 26 – Denver to Lisbon. John and I met up with Raylene and headed to pick up Shari. We then proceeded to DIA to begin our adventure. This will be the first time in Portugal for all of us. We lunched at Elway’s at the Denver airport. Always a good choice, delicious and relaxing. Our flight to DC was at 3:45pm and left Denver right on time. After a short layover in DC, we headed across the Atlantic on an overnight flight to Lisbon. We were served an evening meal with lemon ice for dessert. I tried to fall asleep but couldn’t. I watched the movie Lady Bird. That did the trick. It wasn’t very exciting.
Lisbon to Sintra, Portugal
Friday, April 27th – Our arrival in Lisbon was pretty much on time. The transfer to the hotel took a while, as we waited for Viking’s greeting staff to gather people from various flights. We met a few other people that would be sailing with us during this time. I’m still glad we used Viking transportation. It’s nice just to look for their placard after a long flight and not deal with the logistics of getting to the hotel. When we arrived at the Tivoli Lisboa, it was nearly noon. Check-in was in a meeting room where we were served light refreshments and given our room assignments.
As I stated above, when I travel with Viking, I investigate where the included and optional tours will take us and then look to see what else we can discover. I ran across some photographs of Sintra, Portugal and when I showed them to the others and expressed my interest, it was decided we needed to venture out in that direction. While doing research as to how to get there, I discovered driving a rental car was not recommended. The parking is very difficult in Sintra itself and there can be traffic jams on the road to and from the coast. The driver also misses out on the scenery. There is a train from Lisbon, and then a bus into the historic center. This sounded quite complicated as it would revolve around both the train and bus schedules, so I found a private tour guide to take the four of us. This turned out to be a great decision.
Our group of four met up with Antonio, from JumpInTours.pt, in the lobby of our hotel at 12:40 pm, only ten minutes late. I had notified him earlier of our delayed arrival to the hotel. I approached a young man that appeared to be looking for somebody. “Você é Antonio?” He responded “Você fala português?!” Yikes, I don’t know why I was surprised he answered in Portuguese. Duh, I had to laugh at myself. At least I knew what he asked. “No, I just try to learn a few polite words”, I answered in English. He said not many foreigners attempt to learn any Portuguese at all and that the fact we did this impressed him. Funny how just a little effort can make a big difference.
We jumped in Antonio’s van and left Lisbon behind. He said we were wise not to rent a car to drive to Sintra, and we soon discovered why. As we drove through the winding roads of the countryside to the town of Sintra, there was a lot to take in. He told us about each area we passed through, and a little about himself. He loved meeting people and his business was booming strictly by word of mouth. It’s a good thing, as he would soon be getting married and could use all the money he could earn. I would definitely recommend him. He has many different itineraries available that you can tweak to your liking.
The parking spots were filled as we entered the town of Sintra so Antonio dropped us off at an overlook. After taking in the view, we walked down a narrow street to explore the historic center. John and I walked to the center square and took in the gothic exterior of the Palacio Nacional Sintra. Raylene and Shari dove right into the shopping. They were checking out all the infamous Portuguese cork products. I wish I had purchased the cute cork shoes they found me. They were cute and a good fit but I was afraid I would regret buying the first pair I tried. Instead, I never found my size again.
The Quinta da Regaleira was one place we wanted to see. It is a lavish mansion with an elaborate garden containing secret passages, caves, mystic religious symbols, and water features. It cost 6 euros to enter. Antonio, as a guide, could bypass the regular queue and secured our tickets right away. He showed us the highlights on the map, pointed out our meeting spot, and we set out to explore on our own. It didn’t feel at all crowded, even though the line at the entrance would have indicated otherwise. I guess it was because people were spread out between the mansion and the gardens. It was a very relaxing place to be. This was the first of the many UNESCO World Heritage Sites we would visit on this trip.
The most intriguing feature was the “initiation well”, which was used for various secretive ceremonies in the distant past. It resembled an upside down tower with stairs spiraling along the inside and windows looking in instead of out. The posted sign said “Down Only”. Wait, I read that climbing “up” the initiation well is symbolic of rebirth? And we have to go down? Hmm, scary thoughts. There were nine platforms on the way down which could symbolize various things: Nine circles of hell, nine sections of Purgatory, nine skies which constitute paradise. I’ll choose the skies. At the bottom was a compass over a Knights Templar cross. I wonder what exactly went on here way back when? We walked across stones in the water to exit to another level of the garden which contained a small chapel and grottos with water features.
After our visit, we made our way through the cool hills of Serra de Sintra. Antonio stopped at the roadside so we could see a cork tree up close. He then took us to a viewpoint where we could see Monserrate Palace. Antonio had a couple extra things to show us. He drove to the coast, where we had a spectacular view of Azenhas do Mar, the seaside town near Sintra in the Colares parish.
We stayed on the coast to take in a meal. Dinner was absolutely delicious at Bar do Fundo, located right on the beach. Since the wind was a bit chilly, we ate inside but right next to the expanse of windows. We enjoyed the crashing waves. Antonio recommended the Bacalhau, which was grilled codfish, so I ordered that. I was not disappointed. John invited Antonio to dine with us. He had our friendly waiter bring barnacles, yes barnacles, to the table for us to taste. John was the only one brave enough to do so. He said they tasted like the ocean – super salty. They are even cooked in the saltwater, so no wonder. Widely consumed in Portugal and Spain, the “Goose Barnacles” are also known as Percebes. Some people call them Lucifer’s fingers. Divers make dangerous trips into the strong ocean waves to scrape them from the cliffside where the surf crashes. Shari and I just had to go wade in the ocean after dinner. After getting all the sand off our feet, we climbed back into the van.
Another great view was from the Cabo da Roca Lighthouse. It is located on the westernmost point of the Sintra Mountain Range, of mainland Portugal, of continental Europe, and the Eurasion land mass. The cliffs rise 450 feet above the Atlantic. At this point, we are the closest we will be to America while visiting here.
A short drive away was Palácio Nacional da Pena. Pena Palace’s beauty is mostly on the outside. Surrounded by a lush, green forest, the palace is vividly painted just as it appeared in 1910, when the nobles fled the country to escape the revolution. Since it gets quite crowded, we enjoyed its views after it had closed for the day and the multitude of tourists were no longer present. Although we didn’t get to walk the terraces, we could still get pretty near.
Hint: There are two different entrance choices if you do visit: One for the palace and park (14 euros) or one for just the park (7.50 euros).
We arrived back at the Tivoli Lisboa after 9:00pm, found our assigned bus for the next day, and turned in. What a great first day in Portugal! I can’t wait to see what tomorrow has in store for us.
Lisbon
Saturday, April 28th – Breakfast was included with our hotel stay, so we enjoyed a nice buffet and much needed coffee. On our half day “Cosmopolitan Lisbon Tour” Nuno served as our guide and Manuel was our coach driver. We only saw the Monument of the Discoveries, “Padrão dos Descobrimentos” from the coach, but it was still an impressive sculpture, looking like a three-sailed ship ready to depart the Tagus waterfront in Belem. Thirty historical figures grace the prow.
Hint: You can go inside the monument and enjoy the exhibition spaces within. I was unaware we could do so, but next time…….
Next, Manuel pulled the coach into the bus park and we walked a short distance passed the Monumento Combatentes war memorial dedicated to soldiers who died overseas from 1961 to 1974. There is an eternal flame burning to signify the lasting memory of the men.
A bit further along the bank was the Belém Tower. Very few people were near, as it was not yet open to visitors for the day. It was built between 1514 and 1520, and is a UNESCO World Heritage site. Nuno pointed out the gargoyle in the shape of a rhinoceros. He said a rhino was brought to Portugal the year before construction took place and served as the inspiration for the out of place sculpture. The tower was originally built for defense but later became a lighthouse, and then a customs house.
Jerónimos Monastery was nearby and our next stop. The building is mostly in the Manueline style with delicate details covering the outside. It was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983. It was built to commemorate the return of Vasco de Gama from India and this is where his tomb is located. The church of Santa Maria was built on the former site of the chapel he and his men would pray in before setting sail. The Cloister was breath-taking from either level.
Museu Nacional de Arqueología
After our tour, we visited the gift shop, and more importantly, the cafe. This is where we had our first taste of the Pastel de Nata, the Portuguese custard tarts. Yum! I’m sure we will enjoy them again. We also tasted the Queijo Vaca, a regional cured cheese.
The Alfama district is the oldest neighborhood in Lisbon. It is made up of the tiniest cobblestone streets and passageways with steep stairs. Our local tour guide for Alfama was André who said the density of the buildings is the reason this area survived the earthquake in 1755. He took us down the narrowest alley where we had to walk single file. It was like exploring a maze with a surprise around every corner. Residents hang their pet bird’s cages outside near the windows along with the flower boxes. Around another corner two women were selling a strong cherry liquor called Ginga in shot glasses. An old woman peered down from a window above to see who might partake in a tasting. Fado could be heard from various establishments. Levis made great planters on another balcony railing. The famous Azulejo tiles were everywhere from the church walls to ordinary houses.
After the tour we relaxed in the area with a beer and shopping. We explored a little more and saw the elevator that went straight up to a catwalk that would help one to avoid the steep hills. That looked like something we might have to try out.
Back at the hotel we joined a few fellow Viking guests for optional tour with Nanu to National Tile Museum. Located in an old convent, the Madre de Deus Convent, we enjoyed the spaces as well as the museum exhibits. John finally knows the full history of tile. He’s worked with it on a daily basis for years. The Madre de Deus Church was over the top, baroque with gold and tiles everywhere. We were then taken to a makeshift workshop where we painted our own tiles. I was quite impressed with everyones attention to detail. Our tiles were collected in order to be fired. We would get them back once on board our ship. The tour continued through a few more rooms. One room had a huge wall of tiles depicting the awe inspiring “Panorama of Lisbon” from the 1700’s.
That evening we explored Lisbon some more. The hotel concierge had given us the name of a restaurant called “A Gina” to have dinner. It was NOT easy to find. It was behind newer construction projects causing it to be located in a parking lot. We opted for al fresco dining, with blankets available for us if the evening grew cold. The meals were delightful. John had a two-foot-long kabob of various meats with sides of thin sliced potatoes and other veggies.
After dinner, we took a cab, intending to go to the top of the elevator to ride it down, since that was the least crowded direction according to Nuno. We had the driver drop us off just short of our destination, near a market that resembled the German Christmas Markets we’ve been to. We wandered about and checked out the various stalls. I don’t believe any of us purchased anything. John tasted some pork from a whole roasted pig. From right behind its ears. The rest of us passed. The nighttime overview of Lisbon from the market terrace is stunning. Time passed as we took it in.
Unfortunately, we got to the elevator after it had closed to passengers, but enjoyed people watching from the platform. We opted for a stairway down as opposed to the steep hill of the street. That elevator sure would have been nice. We stopped and bought Pastel de Nate pastries at Fábrica da Nata Bakery to take back to the hotel.
Once back at the hotel, we went to the rooftop bar for a beer, but since is was drizzling we were unable to enjoy the open-air seating. Raylene and Shari headed to their room. John and I enjoyed talking with our waiter and munching on nuts before we headed up to our room a short time later.
Visiting Coimbria
Sunday, April 29th – After breakfast, we had a two-hour coach ride through the countryside, through many little towns, to Coimbria. This city is where several kings of Portugal were born. We drove past the monastery of Santa Clara-a-Velha on the bank of the Mondego River as we drove to the university.
Coimbria is the oldest university town in Portugal. University of Coimbria was founded in 1290 and stands on the grounds of the former palace. The students dress in black robes over black suits and ties. Our guide believes this was the inspiration for Harry Potter. Some students met us as we disembarked the coach, and I just had to buy one of the pencils they were selling with spinning wooden characters on them.
The library, “Biblioteca Joanina”, holds over 300,000 books. What a sight to see! They were even in some very small rooms with low ceilings. The Chapel of the University, Cappella de São Miquel or Saint Michael was equally stunning. The azulejo tiles filled the walls. The tile on the floors was made to look like carpet. The organ was huge with 2,000 pipes! – I did NOT count them!
The buildings of the old town are from the medieval era. We had a little free time to shop, so Raylene, Shari and I wandered into a few shops. John went on a walk around the area. I was able to find a cork weekender bag, that I still love. I almost did’t get it, but ran back and made the purchase before having to hurry back to the coach. I didn’t want to regret leaving it behind like the cork shoes.
Lunch was at Repúbloica da Saudade in Coimbria. The students spread their robes on the ground in front of us and we walked over them on the way into the restaurant. We were told it is an expression of respect for academic life to put clothing down for someone else to walk over it. We also learned the robes aren’t washed, so the student’s memories of university life won’t be washed away. During lunch we listened to the traditional fado music. Sad music, about struggle and passion. Fado originated here in Portugal and became a national heritage. The lyrics were in Portuguese but still touching.
As we arrived in Porto, it’s hard to miss how many bridges span the river. Each one different and appealing. Our coach stopped near the dock and we boarded the Viking Hemming. It is smaller than some of the longships but that means less people. Yay! We were introduced to some of our mostly Portuguese crew. Check-in went smoothly and we proceeded to our stateroom and relaxed a bit. That evening we had a welcome dinner.
Porto
Monday, April 30th – The weather forecast is 60 for a high and 49 for a low with a 40% chance of rain. I guess we should prepare for the wet and cold.
We opted to take the Porto hike with a local guide, Francesca. John and I had done a similar walking tour in Budapest and enjoyed the smaller group. You also have the chance to explore the different modes of transportation. First, we boarded a Douro River water taxi that took us across the river and further up the bank. Our guide offered a description of the bridges we passed on our walk along the waterfront. Ruins of some former bridges remain, so we learned the history of those as well. Next, we rode the funicular to the top of the double deck Dom Luís I Bridge to explore.
The Porto Cathedral looked like two different styles of architecture depending which side you were on. More of the famous tiles, of course. The inside was full of gold and intricate stained glass. Up the hill was the São Bento (Saint Benedict) Railway Station. Another building that is pretty from the outside, yet even more incredible inside. There are murals of azulejo tiles depicting moments in Portugal’s history. Above these are murals in full color. A busy place with a lot of trains coming and going.
Off to another church – the Igreja de São Francisco – to admire its Gothic architecture. Looking out across the skyline, you can see church spires everywhere. I’m sure you could spend a week just touring churches. It was one church, with three very different facades.
I was still looking to buy some cork shoes. We popped in a few different stores. So far, the ones I like aren’t in my size. Shari was looking for cool flip flops but was told it’s a little early in the season. She opted for some boots she had seen previously but we didn’t remember which store. John remembered – they were at a store with a cork rooster in the window. Amazing! She’s a happy girl with new shoes. A guy ran into John crossing a street as we left and attempted to pickpocket his jacket. John pushed him away. Nothing in that pocket anyway. Aargh!
We walked across the Luis I Bridge in the rain but it was still enjoyable to observe the goings on of the river below. At the opposite side, we rode the cable car down to the riverside. Raylene and Shari went for their included wine tasting right away and then headed back to the ship. John and I explored the riverside, stopping in for a beer at a little cafe. I discovered my raincoat was defective as I was soaked underneath it. Oh well, I hung my coat on the back of my chair so I could dry out. You couldn’t tell my top was wet just by looking. A nice, but equally wet, couple joined us for a beer while we waited out the rain.
The sun finally poked through the clouds and we continued exploring. We found another cool piece of garbage art, a rabbit this time. We came to a large marketplace and went inside. There was a bar in the center, where you chose a beer based on a computerized questionnaire. John and I both agreed the recommendations were spot on. My beer looked dark but was super smooth. A delightful charcuterie board made a great snack.
We headed over to our Port Wine tasting. Guess what? John still prefers beer. No surprise there.
Hint: Do the helicopter flight. We didn’t have enough time and the weather wasn’t suiting. If I visit again, I’d love to take one to see all the bridges from the air.
Régua
Tuesday, May 1st – The morning was a leisurely one. Scenic sailing and a presentation where we learned how to look for the best cork. Shari found out her boots were of high quality since they are so smooth. Always good to know a purchase was worth it. We went on deck as the Hemming passed through a lock. Since we were up there, we took advantage of the open mini-golf course.
This afternoon, our guide was Mossio and our coach driver was Joaquin. It was a pleasant drive to Vila Real and the Mateus Palace. Baroque style, the palace was home to the last count of Vila Real. Formal gardens outshone the interior with fantastic flora, walkways, sculpted topiaries, statues, and water features. The spring is definitely a great time to visit. I’m so happy it was a sunny day.
Up a narrow, winding road (I would have thought was not suited for a bus) we made our way to the Quinta do Seixo Sandman Winery. We spotted our ship, the Viking Hemming, moving along the river below. Terraced vineyards covered the hillsides, from the riverbank to the top of the slope. Our guide at the winery was dressed in a black cape and black hat just like the Sandman logo. He walked us through each step of the winemaking process. Of course, we were able to sample and purchase the wines produced here.
The coach then traveled to Pinhão to meet the Hemming. A manta ray made from a towel by Emilia greeted us as we entered our cabin. Dinner included accordion music and the local wine.
Scenic Sailing
Wednesday, May 2nd – Today we get to see more of the Douro River scenery, terraced vineyards and bridges. Shari and Raylene came up to enjoy our balcony for a bit. However, the 360-degree view from the deck was the best place to view the locks at the Valeira and Pocinho Dams.
Barca D’Alva
We were sailing east during the morning enjoying the varying sights. The light playing upon the current in the river made for some beautiful reflections.
Scenic Sailing along the Douro River
After arriving mid-afternoon at “Da Poboa às Barcas do Douro”, we disembarked and boarded our coach. We were very close to the border of Spain here.
Castelo Rodrigo
As we make our way along the winding road, we can see a walled village in the distance. This is where we are headed. Another UNESCO site.
Castelo Rodrigo sits on a hill at an altitude of 2,200 feet, surrounded by almond trees. It was like a medieval fortress that time forgot. The narrow cobblestone streets meandered up some pretty steep hills. A few stork nests could be seen on the rooftops throughout the village. Our guide pointed out Sonagoga Street, which housed Jewish refugees from the Spanish Inquisition. Above some of the doors were various symbols or small statues. There was also a simple Church with some strange statues. We passed a community oven used by the villagers and headed back down to our meeting point.
A sample of wine was included in our tour along with an almond tasting. Of course, we visited a purveyor of the local almonds to sample a few more. They were available in every flavor imaginable and so we had to purchase a few.
We returned to our awaiting ship and had dinner with another man traveling with three women. We laughed as he said they were his three wives. He and John had a lot to discuss about what it would be like to have more than one wife. I’m glad I was at least wife number two during introductions. It was a fun evening and we were surprised to learn two of the women were continuing on after our trip, to tour more of Portugal via bicycle. (They later pointed out it would be mostly downhill – hey, I could do that!)
A Day in Salamanca, Spain
Thursday, May 3rd – Our morning was spent on the coach traversing the Iberian countryside. Storks, cows, and sheep could be seen on either side. Our pitstop was at a roadside coffeeshop where we enjoyed a yummy latte. We proceeded to Salamanca, also known as “La Dorada” or “Golden City”. Sandstone buildings with ornate designs surrounded us. The Old City is also a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Salamanca dates back to the Middle Ages but today has an international population due to the university. Our local guide, Maria, introduced us to the city and directed us to the local market. The diversity of products available was immense. The displays were overwhelming: meat, seafood, fruits, vegetables and cheese all arranged within the booths. Here, we enjoyed samples of regional specialties: wine, cheese, olives, strawberries, meats, and strangely Coca-Cola.
At Plaza Mayor, you could get a better feel for what local life may have been like years ago. Storks could be seen nesting among the spires of this city, too. Salamanca’s old quarter is quite walkable, as most attractions are close together.
We made our way to the Gothic House of Shells, which was a sandstone building covered in carved mollusks. It houses the public library.
A short walk from the library, we learned about the 13th century Salamanca University, Spain’s oldest. We were told the red writing on the walls belonged to the graduating students after finals, and is said to contain bull’s blood. Some of the writing is quite historic. The next challenge was finding the frog, called “Parrita”, on a skull on the University’s facade. Needless to say, we needed help after craning our necks for a bit.
Note: Two other carvings most people try to find are an astronaut and an ice cream eating gargoyle. Apparently the latter two are on the Cathedral, and were added during the restoration in the 90’s. A signature of the workmen.
The New Cathedral built from 1513 to 1733, is not so new. It has both Gothic and Baroque style architecture. The Old Cathedral IS old, built in the 12th century in a Romanesque style. Both are quite ornate with beautiful facades. Touring the inside is like traveling back in time.
Our free time was spent hunting down, and then enjoying, hot chocolate with churros. Not hot chocolate of the drinking type, but more like hot fudge sundae chocolate, to dip your churros in.
Hint: The portions are very shareable. Four orders were 16 churros and 4 large coffee cups of chocolate! Two of us finished our chocolate using only two churros but the other two left chocolate in their cups. Nearly four churros and two half cups of chocolate were abandoned. So sad.
Raylene and Shari decided to go shopping, while John and I had other plans. We walked down to the Roman Bridge over the Tormes River. Today, it’s for pedestrians only, but was once the main road into the city. We toured the Art Nuvo Gallery which had some beautiful pieces. Now it was time to relax a bit and enjoy a cold beer at an outdoor terrace near the cathedrals.
Maria gathered our group and led us to a hotel. Afternoon Tea was in the basement of this historic building. Sandwiches and a variety of pastries were served.
The ship had traveled while we visited Salamanca. We met it at Vega de Terrón, the first port in Spain. The Hemming was docked on the Spanish side of the river and the view was so pretty from the deck. It was the perfect place to kick back for a while and enjoy the setting sun. John and I ventured out for a walk back to Portugal across a bridge. Then, we decided to be adventurous and returned to Spain over the railroad trestle. Shari and Raylene preferred to observe us from the Aquavit Terrace as they sipped on cold adult beverages.
Favaios, Portugal
Friday, May 4th – The Viking Hemming is now sailing back to the west. Vineyards, called Quintas in Portugal, are located all along the Douro River. Many villages exist that depend on these Quintas, and we had the opportunity to explore one of the villages, filled with friendly people and sleepy dogs.
In the uncrowded village of Favaios, we visited a traditional bakery, one of eight in the village. It was tiny, but famous for its four corners bread, and the aroma, incredible. Our guide Luis led us inside. In the first area, there were ovens. The ovens are fueled with old grapevines and wood.
In the next room was the baker, Dona, the last maid of Salazar, the Portuguese dictator. She returned here to her hometown to make 1,000 loaves of bread a day. We had a demonstration of how to fold the dough 12 times in order to make the correct shape. One woman in our group was selected to try her hand at forming the dough. Dona didn’t look happy. Tasting the hot bread fresh out of the oven was a treat though. Honey and apricot preserves could be added at will. Yummy!
Next, we toured the local museum of wine and bread with Metu. Are we being followed? It seems the employees of the bakery are now at the museum. We watched a film made by the local children and then admired the views from a balcony. Finally, it was explained that the town is a co-op, where everything is integrated for the good of the community. Everyone must do their part. So, we were encountering the same people in each area.
Bread and Tour Museum Tour Slide Show
Next was a short walk around the small town itself, which took us past the schoolhouse. Signs segregating boys from girls are still located over the doors. There were a few little shops.
Oenophiles come to Portugal for one thing – the variety of wines. The Douro Wine District is another UNESCO site. Muscatel is the local wine made from the sweet grapes grown in this region, so of course we had to visit the large winery with our guide, Goai. I was amazed that the vats were stainless steel, and outside, at the Adega. The climate here is temperate, so no damage is done to the aging wine.
Wine Production Facility
A short coach ride up the hill and we arrived at Quinta de Avessada, an old winery. We were met by an accordion player and a drummer, as well as a few dogs, out front. We were then shown the operation by a Mr. Bean-like character. He explained the process of making muscatel, the local fortified wine. The lecture took place in a room with huge wine casks. The back doors of the barn-like structure led to a grand terrace. The garden and water features were beautiful, but the view that overlooked the grapevines was stunning. We were welcomed with nibbles and wine.
Lunch was also with Mr Bean. (Sorry, I can’t remember his actual name). We were served an enormous amount of food and then offered Grappa. No thanks! By the way, John, “No beer here, Sir, this is a winery.” A young man seems confused that someone should ask for an alternate beverage. Mr. Bean boarded our coach before we left to bid us farewell.
Pinhão, Portugal
We made it back to our ship at Pinháo only to sail back to Régua. Pinháo looked very inviting but we were informed there was absolutely no way we could go adventuring there, as we had to get underway as soon as everyone was on board. I would have liked to explore at least a little bit.
The ship did leave as soon as all were on board. I guess navigating through the locks is a precise art. We went up on deck for a bit to enjoy the sights. John liked the low bridges.
Régua, Portugal
We docked in Régua overnight. John and I went out and talked to a few people traveling by different modes of transportation. We popped into a hotel to ask if they usually have availability, or if they are usually full. It depends on what time of year as to how busy they are, but we were told most hotels can usually accommodate walk-ins. Good to know.
Saturday, May 5th – Shortly after breakfast, we headed for enchanting Lamego. It’s a pilgrimage town where believers trek to the Shrine of Our Lady of Remedies, or Nossa Senhora dos Remédios. Built in the 18th century in the baroque style on a prominent hill, it is beautiful. Instead of climbing “up” the 686 steps of the double staircase on our knees, we were glad Viking dropped us off at the top. First, we visited the chapel and then the sacristy, to view the nursing Mary statue.
We made our way to the stairs. So many of the blue and white tiles known as azulejo tiles decorated the nine terraces, with various scenes, on the way down. There were beautiful views of the town below, but you had to turn around and look up every so often, back at the shrine. Pretty urns were placed along the way. We made our way down at a leisurely pace. There was a fountain and statues in a garden at the bottom. We had to walk a few blocks to get the full effect of the shrine from below.
It was a beautiful day and we enjoyed our walk further into the city. The Gothic Cathedral is called the Our Lady of Assumption Cathedral. It had a pretty arched ceiling and ornate altar.
We stepped into a few shops to see what they had to offer. John tried on some cork hats.
Lamego also had a nice museum, Museo de Lamego, featuring the famed Flemish tapestries and the pregnant Madonna. On our way out to our group meeting place, we ran into the piano player from our ship. He had run the seven miles from Regua to Lamego. He was at the museum to catch a ride back to the ship on the coach. He seemed awfully glad to visit a bit more with Shari!
The afternoon slipped by as we sailed to Porto. John was very interested in the olive oil demo and tasting. A couple different oils were coming home with us.
The Port wine opening ceremony followed shortly after. Heat and a special tool cut the neck of the bottle, so no corkscrew is needed. Port wine accompanied us on a scenic sail out to the Atlantic under the majestic bridges of Porto. Our farewell dinner was very nice. We visited one last time with the new friends we had made and said our farewells.
Returning Home
Sunday, May 6th – Porto to Denver
Sometimes all you need is a movie marathon to get you home. I watched the Greatest Showman, Father Figures, and Wonder. We were delayed out of Newark so we didn’t get home until after 1 am.
Afterthoughts
Port wine is stronger than expected. At the tastings, they start out with the least potent and make the way to the stronger ones. At home, when you open the stronger one (I brought one home that was aged 20 years) it’s bold and strong. Leftovers, however, made a magnificent chicken marinade.
I can’t wait to see where our next adventure will be!
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