After spending a few days in Munich, Germany and Salzburg, Austria, it was time to board our Viking longship in Passau, Germany. Jan and I would be be joined by my brother-in-law Mike and sister-in-law Ruth for the cruise portion of our itinerary. It had been a while since I had traveled with them and I was looking forward to some fun times.
Wednesday, December 12th – We arrived in Passau, Germany after spending a musical morning on a Sound of Music tour. Our “new” ship, the Viking Ve was docked on the Danube very close to the city center. What happened to the Viking Hermod we were originally booked on? Apparently, the Danube had less water than usual. I’m just glad we were still be able to sail from Passau to Budapest!
Jan and I got all checked in for the river cruise portion of our journey. Our stateroom, number 232, was on the same level as the restaurant but quite a trek down the hall. We opted for a french balcony this time. It had a floor to ceiling sliding glass door that opened up but was not quite as roomy as the veranda stateroom we chose last time. Not that it mattered, we didn’t intend spending much time in there. Our steward was Razvan from Romania. He welcomed us with a friendly smile. Viking staff take such good care of their guests and he was no exception.
Mike and Ruth were out and about making their own discoveries, so Jan and I joined the welcome walk. Passau is such a pretty little town at the convergence of three rivers: the Danube, Inn and Ilz. The narrow streets led up to the main square. The Ve was docked within walking distance of the Christmas Market. Actually Passau proved to be a very walkable town. There was a lot to see in a compact area.
Thursday, December 13th – This was the morning we headed ashore for our Passau walking tour with a local guide. She carried the lollypop for the Hermod, our original ship, which struck us as a little funny. We hoped nobody got confused. The paintings on the Rathaus depicted the empire of Ludwig of Bavaria and others related to the history of the area. The high water mark on the bottom of the clocktower is astonishing. I guess being where the rivers meet makes for a very dangerous situation when there is flooding. I was here one month before the 2013 flood.
Our guide quizzed us as to the numerals on the side of the Veste Oberhaus across the Danube. (The second number is half of an 8 so 1499 – Hmm) Today the fortress has an outdoor theater and houses a museum, youth hostel and restaurant. I wouldn’t want to stay in one of the rooms with a fake window – painted due to the window tax back then.
The doors to the University and library were something to stop and admire. There are over 10,000 students here so that makes one of every five residents. Wow!
Around the corner of land’s end, we strolled up the bank of the Inn River just before it empties into the Danube. Pilgrimage Church Mariahilf which was built in the 1620’s could be seen across the water just above the town of Innstadt. The staircase of 321 steps (the heavenly ladder) leads up the steep slope to the miraculous image (a painting of the Virgin Mary) inside the abbey. Some people go up on their knees as they pray on each step.
The Bishop’s Residenz from the early 18th century had the most impressive staircase featuring such stunning frescoes.
We ventured just a short way before stopping to admire the majestic St Stephen’s Cathedral from the exterior. Then we stepped inside its baroque interior which included a huge pipe organ – Europe’s largest (the world’s second largest). It consists of 17,974 pipes, 233 stops and four carillons. We did not have a chance to listen to an organ concert this time (I had on previous visits), so we wandered about soaking in the opulent interior. The angels in the paintings on the upper domes had plaster legs that dangled over the edge.
Since the organ concert wasn’t available in December, we instead were treated to a gingerbread making demonstration. Samples of the tasty treat were passed around the audience to taste and we were each given a cookie to take with us. Of course tins were available for purchase as well. As a bonus, a candle wreath making demonstration was also included.
Free time was upon us so Jan, Ruth and I took the opportunity to, you guessed it, visit the Christmas Market! We had to sample the sneeballs, smoked salmon – and of course the Glühwein. Ruth had a hard time believing me about the ingredients of the pferdewurst so she inquired about it and chose not to buy one. I found a Glühwein mix of dried spices to purchase.
Ruth wanted to show me and Jan the areas she and Mike had been to on their walk the day before so we went and did a little window shopping. Ruth did a little “air skateboarding” as well. Is that why she wanted to go back?
We had return to the ship at 2:45pm for our departure to Austria. Back on board, we were given a Christmas cookie demonstration. Audience members could then try their hand at forming the moons. Jan and Ruth both jumped in and made a couple.
The evening ended with a Christmas Tree Trimming Party where we decorated white ornaments with markers to hang on the tree near the piano.
Friday, December 14th – The ship docked in Linz, Austria but we were off on another adventure. We joined an included tour to Česky Krumlov, in the Czech Republic with our local guide Stepan and coach driver Peter. The drive through the countryside was very scenic and eventually we spied the town’s castle up high on a slope.
The views from the overlook were amazing. The medieval castle exterior was painted to look like stone and brick. The tower was painted in several different colors. There was a bear moat where they have kept bears since 1707 according to the sign, but we didn’t spot any bears.
Česky Krumlov Castle
We then left the castle and were taken to the old town center to see some ancient murals and the town hall. Many of the buildings in that area were also painted with faux bricks and stone like the castle.
We enjoyed lunch in a local cafe called Papa’s Living Restaurant where we tried the famous Czech Pilsner Urquell beer. I had Halibut and Jan had Jehnēčí (lamb). Our bill came to 816.00 which seemed scary until we converted it to 37 Euro.
The Christmas Market was small but pretty. After perusing the stalls, we popped into a few little shops along the narrow street nearby. The toy shop with scary puppets in the basement was quite entertaining. I found an espresso cup and the others all found a little something from painted eggs to wooden toys.
Our time in the Czech Republic was over and by the time we returned to Linz it was getting dark. We headed to the Christmas Market in the the city’s main square, called the Hauptplatz. Austria’s largest church, the New Cathedral, also known as the Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, was located in this old quarter as well. Live music made the market all that more festive. I had to keep my glühwein mug and buy a little Santa figurine to go with it.
After dinner, we went to the lounge for a bit. Ruth was chosen to go up and show off her dancing skills. Go Ruth!
Saturday, December 15th – Our morning was spent sailing through the Wachau Valley. Both sides of the river had terraced vineyards and castle ruins. Some of the hills were covered in trees. There were many picturesque little towns as well. Eighteen miles of the valley is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It was soooo relaxing.
Scenic Views from the Danube
Shortly after lunch, we arrived in Krems, Austria.
But we didn’t stay there! Instead we headed out to another UNESCO site, the alluring Benedictine Göttweig Abbey. It was located just a short drive from the Danube.
Since the abbey grounds were so snowy, we were led into a back entrance. Our local guide Atilla showed us through the monastery.
The grand staircase was painted with splendid frescoes. A mirror is placed in an optimal spot to get a good photo – if only Harris will let Jan take one. The abbey houses collections of books, coins, and artwork among other artifacts.
Monks are still living at the abbey and we were led through their domicile hallway on our way to the chapel since the normal path was snow-covered. The oldest part of the chapel dates back to 1072.
Atilla was one of the people serving us for a wine tasting following our tour!
Göttweig Abbey
Back in Krems, Jan and I popped across the street to a little Christmas Market we spied as we got off the bus. Some school children were putting on a little Christmas play. It was so fun to watch!
Soon we were on our way to the Christmas Market at Steiner Tor. So enjoyable! Mike and Ruth even danced to the live band, much to the musician’s delight. The Glühwein cups were just regular coffee cops so a pic would do.
Dinner was “A Taste of Austria” themed affair. Musicians greeted us at the bottom of the stairway. The crew dressed in their leiderhosen and dirndls.
Mike and Ruth were feted with a song and a special dessert for their 41st anniversary. After dinner, everyone was invited to a galley tour to see where our food was prepared each meal.
Sunday, December 16th – Oh how I love Vienna! Just one of the European capital cities along the Danube.
The morning was spent on a Panoramic Ringstrasse Tour with our local guide Gabriella and our talented driver Vlado. Part of the tour was by motor coach and we drove past some amazing architecture, including the St. Nicholas Russian Orthodox Church near the Danube. The coach continued past the Tegetthoff spire with its snowcapped horses and we saw the ferris wheel from the “The Third Man” and other movies. The coach then crossed the Danube canal past the Urania Observatory and continued into the city.
The Vienna State Opera and all the green parks scattered throughout the area were breathtaking. Our guide pointed out the Golden Johann Strauss monument in the Stadtpark. You know the man, he gave us the “Blue Danube” waltz.
Along the historic Ringstrasse, there was the Old Town Hall – picture perfect with the Christmas Market covering the Rathausplatz. The Weltmuseum is located in the Hofburg Palace, with its many larger than life statues on the peaks of the rooftop.
The coach pulled to a stop and we were able to walk about the Maria-Theresien-Platz and Memorial. Oooh – another Christmas Market! It was not yet open for the day and I couldn’t wait to go back and see it in the evening.
This was where the walking portion of our excursion began so we proceeded through an arched gate and into the Heldenplatz (Heroes’ Square) located in front of the Hofburg Palace. The President of Austria resides in one of the wings.
Michaelplatz, the square in front of the entrance to the Palace, had Roman ruins that were discovered in 1995. The ruins are said to be the military camp Vindobona.
Another Christmas Market stood between the ruins and the Palace. All of the stalls were white with each front sign depicting the palace on it. We perused the offerings from ornaments to jewelry.
The Spanish Riding School is located here and we were able to catch a glimpse of the magnificent Lipizzaner Stalllions in their stalls.
A quick stop was made to view and photograph the famous Demel windows, which display pastries and chocolate to lure one inside to be served by white-aproned waitresses bearing their own name – Demelinerinnen.
Our walk continued through the heart of Vienna down the “shopping Street” Kaerntnerstrasse, with its premium luxury names: Gucci, Fendi, Armani, Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Burberry, etc. We also peeked down a street at Peter’s Church and stopped near the Plague Column to learn a bit of history. The column has complex meanings and icons. The golden top represents heaven and each face is associated with the Holy Trinity.
St. Stephens Cathedral was crowded inside and a mass was in session. The entire square outside was bustling with people enjoying the Christmas Market as well.
Score! Little red boot glühwein mugs. Jan and I both had to have one. Of course we enjoyed the beverage inside- a tasty Glühwein and an Apfelstrudel Punsch. I also found an ornament that looked like a mini chandelier for a certain someone’s doll house. We popped into M Weinwurm & Sohn Cafe for Mélange and Sachertorte. So delicious!
The afternoon was spent on an optional tour to Schönbrunn Palace, a UNESCO site. Our guide was Weiter and our driver Herhardt. (My last attempt at getting to the Christmas Market at the palace was foiled by high winds that shut down the market just as we were being dropped off by an expensive taxi.) The drive took us through the city where we could further admire the variety of architecture.
Schönbrunn Palace is also known as the “Versailles of Austria”. The palace and gardens certainly do rival those of Versailles. Amazing! The Hapsburg Dynasty’s summer home was as opulent as can be. The tour took us through grand rooms Maria Theresa herself had resided in at one time. No photographs were allowed inside. Maria Theresa is responsible for the Gloriette colonnade with its expansive views.
After our tour inside, we headed out to the gardens for the Christmas Market. There was one silly thing I was keeping an eye out for as we strolled the various stalls in all these markets, and I finally spot them – metal monkey calculators. I bought a few and when I showed them to Mike and Ruth, they went back to purchase some as well. The vendor probably thought we were strange.
On the way back to the ship, we were offered the opportunity to be dropped off in the city center, so Jan and I hopped off the bus. Mike and Ruth returned to the ship.
Christmas Markets are located throughout the city. First we went to Karlskirche. In Resselpark, we discovered an art show with some unique creations. We even enjoyed melodic violin tunes played by a gentleman as we left the area.
Art in the Park
Even the product displays of the Christmas Market were artfully arranged and handmade.
Maria-Theresaplatz was our next stop and it was prettier in all lit up in the dark. More little boot mugs and friendly people.
Jan and I are having so much fun making our way from place to place. Vienna at night is so pretty all lit up in festive lights. The Volksgarten trees were covered in them. Rathausplatz was beautifully illuminated as well.
What a fun evening. I’m so glad we stayed in Vienna for the evening or we would never have gotten to see a rat, or maybe just a mouse, scurrying about at the Rathaus ice skating ring. The Rathaus had unique heart-shaped Glühwein cups for my collection and I found a giraffe figurine for my Mom.
Since we had such a full day, we made it back on board in plenty of time before the 11:45pm deadline.
Monday, December 17th – Our ship arrived early to Bratislava, Slovakia’s capital, very near both Austria and Hungary. The Panoramic Tour with our local guide Uri consisted of both a coach tour and walking tour similar to yesterday. First we drove through the city and then up to where the U.S. Embassy was located. We could see the castle in the distance from there.
Our first stop was at the Bratislava Castle, where Uri led us up the slope to the plateau high above the Danube. The Christmas display included a carved wooden nativity and live animals. Ruth and Jan couldn’t help but give out neck rubs. There was a tiny gift shop stuffed with souvenirs including several types of Slivovitz.
The vantage point of the castle offered sweeping views of the city below.
A Walk through Bratislava
Of course we had to visit notorious Čumil, the man at work statue. None of us layed down in the street to look him in the eye. He was installed in 1997 but has had to be repaired a few times due to careless drivers.
Off to the opera house where we said our goodbyes to Uri and enjoyed some free time exploring on our own.
Who can pass up a cafe with flowing white and milk chocolate in the front window? This seemed like as good place as any to take a “break”.
At the Christmas Market, we tried a burrito like food and a Slovakian “Black Bear” black currant mulled wine. The food was strange (glad we shared) but the hot beverage was tasty. I wish we could have sampled the honey mead. I bought a cute ceramic bell ornament, a bottle opener and some chocolate.
Back on board the Ve before noon, we sat and relaxed at lunch and afterwards visited the wheelhouse.
The Captain’s Cocktail Party and farewell toast preceded dinner. Budapest was spectacular with all the buildings lit up as we arrived.
Tuesday, December 18th – Budapest Hungary. The ship is docked a little further down the Danube than the last time I sailed here with Viking. Their usual docking space was too shallow to accommodate the Ve.
Jan and I went on the optional excursion – Castle Hill Hike. Our local guide was Oliver. It was freezing cold, but we patiently waited for one lady to run back on board for her mittens. Maybe a little too patiently, as we were still waiting when Oliver said maybe we should go and then realized she was right next to him – and had been for some time. He underestimated her speed.
Walking helped us ignore the cold temps and soon the day began to get just slightly less freezing. We enjoyed the views of the Danube as we walked across the bridge to the Buda side.
I noticed we were passing by the Gellért thermal spa we went to the first time we were in Budapest. I wish we had more time here so we could go for a soak.
I’m glad Oliver was retrieving our tickets from the machine because tram 19 was coming soon. It took us to kilometer 0 at the bottom of the Funicular we would use to get up the steep slope. The river and bridge grew further away as we ascended upward. It’s fun to try out the different forms of transportation and watch the locals making their way around the city.
The Buda Castle grounds are beautiful and the view from the plateau is expansive. I can check off another UNESCO World Heritage Site. You can see everything back on the flat terrain of the Pest side of the river including Parliament. We spied a little bunny with his monocular checking out the scenery.
The castle had no guards. I had been here twice before for the changing of the guards. I guess there is nobody important enough inside for them to be stationed out in this cold weather. I was a little disappointed as we strolled past.
Oliver told us about the Statue of the Independence War erected as a tribute to the Hungarian freedom fighters. There was an inviting looking coffee shop along the street.
At the top of the hill was Matthias Church with its ornate Charles Crown copy and a Black Madonna copy. Jan and I saw the actual miraculous Black Madonna statue at Einsiedeln Abbey on a previous trip. Even the tile on the floor was the same as in the Swiss chapel. We saw Mike and Ruth with their excursion group that didn’t entail so much walking.
Fisherman’s Bastion offered spectacular views of the Danube and the city. One could see how large Parliament actually is in comparison to the surrounding buildings.
Soon, it was time to walk back to the Pest side over the Chain Bridge with its regal lions at each end. We visited a Christmas Market and then made our way down Vaci Utca, the shopping street. The Grand Market is just that – very grand! Multiple levels of Hungarian delights were offered. I bought paprika, both sweet and hot, something I will do every time I come here, as it can’t be beat.
Back on board, we enjoyed a lunch of yummy orange ginger soup and salmon. Ruth joined Jan and I to venture back into the city. We took her to the Grand Market. I bought my sisters small hand-carved Santas. Jan bought a gorgeous not-so-small skiing santa.
It was so fun just making our way around the city from place to place down the elaborately decorated streets.
There were several Christmas Markets with unusual handmade items. I think we all bought little ceramic bird whistles.
I bought a little garden fairy wind chime. Ruth bought a handmade lamp with a multi-colored glass shade from the sweetest lady. I couldn’t pass up the chance to eat a chimney cake right off the coals with steam rising up from the hollow as the vendor passed it to me – plenty to share too.
Wednesday, December 19th – It seemed like I had been away from home for a long time but it seemed like we just got there too. Vacation was over and I had to return to make final preparations for the Christmas holiday.
I had a few gifts I purchased which I needed to wrap that I hoped the recipients would love. I had a few “to me, from me” gifts to bring back memories time and again. I also had a receipt for my overweight luggage. The gate agent would have let it go but a woman from our cruise had a question and I let her cut in front of me. I had to move to a not so nice guy who wouldn’t let it slide.
Thankfully we all made it back safe and sound on our scheduled flights. Mike and Ruth left on the early flight out of Budapest and Jan and I joined them in Munich later in the day. We were all on the same flight home from there.
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